Weekend Escape!

This past weekend I took my first trip outside the city with three girlfriends and we had a phenomenal time.  We'd decided that a nice getaway weekend was in order, after several weeks in big, bustling Lima.  Some long-term ex-pats suggested we visit two sleepy farming towns called Canta and Obrajillo, which are nestled in the midst of beautiful, lush mountains and waterfalls.   Needless to say, we were sold! 

on the way to Obrajillo

On top of getting off to a late (9am) start on Saturday morning, we ran into several technical difficulties.  These included two hours of negotiating the poorly (as in not) paved roads and popping a tire (which took another hour to get repaired); turning back 15km from our destination to eat lunch because the roads were closed for repairs; sending our initial taxi back to Lima because we thought it would be easy to pick up another one (haha); and spending an hour waving at cars and buses that were completely full, hoping we could somehow catch a ride now that the roads were open again.  Finally, at 7pm, we checked into our hostel in Obrajillo and I was already feeling some mild effects of what I'm assuming was altitude sickness.  

someone will pick us up, right?

But at this point, it didn't matter.  The air was clear and the cloud haze/smog and exhaust smells were gone!!  The hills were greener and I could hear the river down the way.  AND to our pleasant surprise, we happened to visit right when the town was in the midst of its patron saint festival! Obrajillo was honoring San Juan Bautista (John the Baptist) with over 48 hours of eating, drinking (rum), dancing in the streets to live music provided by several different ensembles, burning a massive monument erected in honor of San Juan, and a grand procession though the town with his likeness.  It was almost like being back in New Orleans, the town was so merry and there were even little drunkies passed out on the streets!  

veggies for the feast

Our hostel happened to be right next to the community feasting area, and we were welcomed very graciously to share their food and take part in the celebrations.  They'd obviously slaughtered a cow for the occasion, and at least 7 different women were involved in the food preparations.  Agustín, a most interesting man with enough energy to fuel an army and the warmest spirit you've ever encountered, took my friend Anna's hand and danced her in circles to a saxophone and harp ensemble that was performing, while the rest of us found dance partners or dance circles to join.  We also met and spoke with several village elders who conveyed their delight in receiving us, and their hope that we would take away a good impression of la provincia.  They are proud of their culture and their pueblito, where they have lived in peace and solidarity, tending to their thriving farms and healthy livestock.  I felt very safe and comfortable here, the most relaxed I've been since I left the US.  And I'm pretty convinced we were probably the only non-Peruvians in town.  

party animal Agustín leading everyone in dance

wish we could have seen this thing on fire!!

Unfortunately, we didn't last long enough that night to witness the monumental bonfire that we'd been eagerly anticipating (apparently the flames went up at about 3am).  This thing had to be at least 30ft tall, made up of bamboo-like wood, and covered in fuses that would eventually be set on fire.  The townspeople really put us to shame on every possible level, as they all danced in cold until sunrise, and were still going strong when we woke up to the sound of fireworks, gunshots, and yes, more music.  

on horseback

After a scenic horseback ride to some gorgeous waterfalls and a hike to a nice vista point, we returned to town and photographed the solemn procession led by the town bishop.  I also tried several different new foods and drinks including a granola/cereal bar "a la provincia," homemade cheese, coca tea, and cow tripe soup (sorry to say, not really a fan).  I chickened out at my chance to try cuy (guinea pig), but I'm sure I will have another opportunity when I leave Lima.  

We set off for Lima at about 4pm on Sunday and made it home in half the time it took us to get there.  The successes of the weekend lifted my spirits and made me anxious to get back here to share it with y'all.

Arrival: Initial Shock and Recovery

2 weeks ago, I landed in Lima with two massive bags, two cameras, my laptop, and an incredibly anxious, but eager state of mind.  I arrived at an apartment known as the "Gringo House" (quite famous among expat students that come here) in Miraflores, one of the richest districts in Lima.  I walked outside our building the next morning, and was somewhat bemused to find a McDonald's, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Burger King, and Chili's, all on the same block in my neighborhood.  Did I leave the US? I mean there are communities in the states where you hear a different language when you walk down the street and still find those very franchises within blocks of each other.  

It really was a trip to see so many US fast food chains. Until, of course, I stumbled on a mercado with vegetable and fruit stands, where vendors were selling unrecognizable produce, and butchers with their meat out in the open.  And I thought to myself, "Aahhhhh, now I'm in Latin America."   It's really easy to forget that the US isn't economically millions of light years ahead of the rest of the world anymore.  I don't really know what I was expecting in coming to Perú's capital city, but it definitely wasn't Starbucks and Pinkberry (no joke, they are also right down the street).  I shouldn't be surprised though. According to the BBC, Peru has one of the fastest growing economies in the world.  It also has incredible amounts of poverty.

My research site, San Juan de Miraflores, does not have any such fast food establishments.  It is located on the outskirts of Lima, amidst sand and rock, poor roads, and stray dogs.  It really is night and day.  I struggle to switch between the two worlds in my everyday routine out here, but I'm slowly getting used to it.  I guess it's very similar to New Orleans in some ways.

I fit in really well amongst the petite, dark-haired Peruvians (except in my study site, where my new, brand-named clothes give me away).  And my Spanish is improving tremendously.  In a few weeks I'll be venturing up to Tumbes, near the Ecuador border.  It's supposed to be hotter than hell up there.  And the seafood is to die for.  Eventually I will also make my way to other parts of Perú, including Cuzco and Arequipa, where I will do some hiking up to Machu Pichu and in the Colca Canyon, which is more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon.  Maybe I'll even make it over to the Amazon regions of Perú!!

More updates to come… stay tuned.